Saturday, August 16, 2008

Kangaroo, part 2


The first half of the pattern is in the last post, here.

Edited to add: The entire pattern in PDF format, with additional diagrams, is now available!

Snout
Finally, the main part of the kangaroo! It starts with Turkish cast-on and increases to shape the snout. The top and bottom of the snout (ie the nose and chin) are different, so be careful!

Cast on 12 stitches in Turkish cast-on.
Row 1: k1, m1, k4, m1, k2, m1, k4, m1, k1
Row 2: [k2, m1, k2] four times
Row 3: [k2, m1, k6, m1, k2] twice
Row 4: k all
Row 5: [k2, m1, k8, m1, k2] twice
Row 6: k5, m1, k4, m1, k8, m1, k8, m1, k3
Row 7: k all
Row 8: k all
Row 9: k6, m1, k4, m1, k9, m1, k10, m1, k3
Row 10: k all
Row 11: k all
Row 12: k all
Row 13: k7, m1, k4, m1, k10, m1, k12, m1, k3
Row 14: k all
Row 15: k all
Row 16: k all
Row 17: k all
Row 18: k8, m1, k4, m1, k11, m1, k14, m1, k3 --44 stitches
Row 19: k all
Row 20: k all
Row 21: k all

Head
The head shaping is done with short rows, which are picked up one row at a time. Meanwhile, decreases set in 2 stitches from the wraps will additionally shape the back of the head. To decrease tension, use 4 needles for the stitches you are working on.

Row 22: k7, wrap 1, don’t turn, place wrapped stitch and 7 next stitches on holder (These 8 stitches are the bottom of the “chin,” and will not be worked in the short rows). Turn.
Row 23 (WS): Starting with the last knitted stitch p35, wrap 1, turn
Row 24: k34, wrap 1, turn
Row 25: p33, wrap 1, turn
Row 26: k32, wrap 1, turn
Row 27: p31, wrap 1, turn
Row 28: k30, wrap 1, turn
Row 29: p29, wrap 1, turn
Row 30: k28, wrap 1, turn
Row 31: p27, wrap 1, turn
Row 32: k26, wrap 1, turn
Row 33: p25, wrap 1, turn
Row 34: k24, wrap 1, turn
Row 35: p23, wrap 1, turn
Row 36: k22, wrap 1, turn
Row 37: p21, wrap 1, turn
Row 38: k20, wrap 1, turn
Row 39: p19, wrap 1, turn
Row 40: k18, wrap 1, turn
Row 41: p17, wrap 1, turn
Row 42: k16, wrap 1, turn

Now, pick up the wraps
Row 43: p16, p next stitch with its wrap, wrap 1, turn
Row 44: k17, k next stitch with its wrap, wrap 1, turn
Row 45: p18, p next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap 1, turn
Row 46: k19, k next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap 1, turn
Row 47: p2, p2tog, p16, p next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap 1, turn
Row 48: k2, ssk, k16, k next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap 1, turn
Row 49-60: work rows 47-48 six times more --30 stitches
Row 61: p2, p2tog, p16, p next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap next st (which is on holder), turn
Row 62: k2, ssk, k16, k next stitch with its 2 wraps, k next st (which is on holder) with its wrap, k 3, place marker. This is marker A, which from now on is the new row marker. --28 stitches
Row 63: K 3, k next st with its wrap, k3, place marker B, k7, place marker C, k7, place marker D, k 7.

Redistribute stitches evenly on the needles, and get your bearings: A is the front of the kangaroo, B its left side (ie on your right when you’re looking at the kanga in the face), C is the back, and D is its right side.

Sew the ears at the “corners” of the head, where the decreases start, using the long tails you left on the ears. Sew or embroider the eyes. Sew or embroider the nose. Weave in any loose ends. Stuff the head, making sure it is firm.






Body
All of the body shaping is done with m1 or single decreases. They may seem random, but the numbers of stitches do work out, and the kangaroo will turn out just right. So that the body shaping can be as smooth as possible, increases and decreases are done 1 stitch away from the markers. That means:

Increase before marker X: k until 1 st remains before marker X, m1, k1, pass marker
Increase after marker X: k to marker X, pass marker, k1, m1
Decrease before marker X: k until 3 st remain before marker X, ssk, k1, pass marker
Decrease after marker X: k to marker X, pass marker, k1, k2tog

The whole body is in stockinette, so except for the increases and decreases, k all

Row 1: k all, but increase before A for next round
Row 2: increase before B, before C, after D
Row 3: k all
Row 4: increase after A, after C
Row 5: k all
Row 6: increase after A, after B, after C, before D
Row 7: k all
Row 8: k all
Row 9: k all
Row 10: increase before B, after D
Row 11: k all, but increase before A for next round
Row 12: increase before B, before C, after D
Row 13: k all, but increase before A for next round
Row 14: increase after A
Row 15: k all, but increase before A for next round
Row 16: increase before B, before C, after D
Row 17: k all
Row 18: increase before and after B, before and after D
Row 19: k all, but increase before A for next round
Row 20: increase after A
Row 21: k all
Row 22: increase after A, before B, after C, after D
Row 23: k all, but increase before A for next round
Row 24: increase after A, before and after C
Row 25: k all
Row 26: k all
Row 27: k all
Row 28: increase before and after B, before and after D
Row 29: k all, but increase before A for next round
Row 30: increase before B, before C, after D
Row 31: k all
Row 32: k all
Row 33: k all
Row 34: increase after A, after B, after C, before D
Row 35: k all
Row 36: increase after B, before D
Row 37: k all
Row 38: increase before and after C
--at this point there should be 22 st between A+B, and D+A; 18 st between B+C, and C+D. Correct any errors on the next row.
Row 39: k all

*for Jack or Jill only, leave out for Joey*: Row 40-47: k all

If your kangaroo is small, or your hands are big, sew on the forepaws now, using the long tails left before. They should be approximately halfway between where the A and side (B or D) markers were, about 1/2 to 1/3 from the neck to how far you are right now. Stuff the body so far, taking care to stuff the neck very firmly so it doesn’t flop over.

Attach tail
Continuing to shape the body, the tail is incorporated into the body, much like a thumb on knitted mittens. Marker C will be replaced by [C1, tail, C2]. “Increase” and “decrease” mean the same as described above.

Row 48: k to 1 st before C. Place new marker C1. Join tail by doing an ssk with the next stitch on the body together with the first stitch of the tail. (Make sure tail is joined with the loose yarn on the body side, to help sew up any holes). K around tail until one tail st remains. Join to body by doing a k2tog with the last tail stitch, with the next body stitch (remove C marker to do so). Place marker C2. K rest.
Row 49: k all
Row 50: k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest.
Row 51: k all
Row 52: k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest.
Row 53: k all, but decrease before A for next round
Row 54: Decrease after A, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest.
Row 56: Decrease before B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease after D
Row 58: Decrease after B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease before D
Row 59: k all, but decrease before A for next round
Row 60: Decrease after A, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest.
Row 62: Decrease before B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease after D
Row 64: Row 58: Decrease after B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease before D
Row 65: k all, but decrease before A for next round
Row 66: Decrease after A, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest.
Row 67: k all, but decrease before A for next round
Row 68: Decrease after A, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest.
Row 69: k all, but decrease before A for next round
Row 70: Decrease after A, decrease before B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease after D.
Row 71: k all
Row 72: k to C1, remove C1, ssk, place marker C, k2tog, remove C2, k rest
Row 73: k to 7 st after C, bind off 52 (passing D, A, B), leaving 16 total stitches.

Bottom
The bottom is knitted in stockinette back-and-forth, not in the round. It will end up a circle shape. To make life easier when seaming, slip the first stitch of each row.

Row 74 (WS): p all, removing marker
Row 75 (RS): p all – this makes a garter ridge to separate the body from the bottom
Row 76: k all
Row 77: p all
Row 78: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1
Rows 79-86: repeat rows 77+78 four more times (total 10 st increased)
Row 87-92: work even in stockinette
Row 93: p all
Row 94: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 st, ssk, k1
Rows 95-100: repeat row 93+94 three times more (total 8 st decreased)
Row 101: p all

For Jill, skip to pouch section.
For Jack and Joey: bind off all stitches, leaving a loooong tail to sew around the bottom

Pouch
The pouch is for Jill only. It’s in 1x1 rib, so that Joey can fit snugly.

Row 102 (RS): p all -- this makes a garter ridge to separate the pouch from the bottom
Rows 103-107: k1, p1 rib
Row 108: M1 at each end, and incorporate into k1, p1 rib
Row 109-113: k1, p1 rib
Row 114: M1 at each end, and incorporate into k1, p1 rib
Row 115-119: k1, p1 rib
Row 120: M1 at each end, and incorporate into k1, p1 rib
Row 121-124: k1, p1 rib

Bind off very loosely in rib. Leave a looooooong tail—it will need to sew both sides of the pouch, and around the bottom.


Finishing
Sew forepaws if not done already.

Sew hindlegs using the yarn tails on the legs. It is easier if you pin them first, so that they end up symmetrically placed. They should be placed about 1/2 to 2/3 between where the A and side (B or D) markers were; place them so that the soles of the feet will line up with the bottom of the kangaroo. Sew them in place vertically. They will flop in and out, so if you don’t like that, tack them down with a stitch on the adults. The Joey’s legs need to flop out to be able to fit in the Jill.

Completely stuff the kangaroo, making sure it is firm, smooth, symmetric, and all-round-cute.
Pin the bottom circle in place, using the garter ridges as a guide. Line up the center of the bottom with where marker A used to be. Then pin the rest in place.

For Joey or Jack, seam around the bottom circle (do a few running stitches to skip the tail). Knot securely, cut yarn, and run the needle into the kangaroo briefly to bury the tail.

For Jill, fold the pouch forward and up into place. Pin in place. It should about as high as the top of the legs. Starting on one side of the pouch, seam down one side of the pouch, across the bottom of the pouch, continue around the bottom circle (do a few running stitches to skip the tail), and again across the bottom of the pouch, and up the second side of the pouch. Knot securely inside the pouch, cut yarn, and run the needle into the kangaroo briefly to bury the tail.

Sit back and say G’day mate to your new kangaroo!

Be nice: Please do not distribute this pattern or products made from this pattern without my permission.

3 comments:

Mommabear7@sbcglobal.net said...

I love this pattern! Thanks so much for shareing it with all! You are so so talented! Hugss and God bless Marion

Mary Sunshine said...

Good heavens!

What a triumph of design and execution.

Thank you, benefactress.

Anonymous said...

Wow, great job. You are quite talented. I'd love to make a kangaroo sometime. Your website was posted on a pattern forum send-out. I just wish it was in crochet form (I don't knit!). :o)

But applause applause. Please let us know (or any of you readers) if it is transposed to crochet.

Thanks for sharing. Looks like great directions with great photos too! - Hana